How to transfer your pattern

A super speedy video showing the transfer of a pattern on to fabric. Linen fabric, water soluble marker.

Method A: Tracing 

Most embroidery patterns are sold with a black and white line drawing of the pattern. Once you have selected your fabric, and the correct size hoop for the pattern, you are ready to transfer. If the image you are embroidering fits on a 6” hoop, let’s say,  cut at least an 8” square to allow one inch all around. Prepare your fabric by putting it upside down in the hoop. Having the fabric stretched taut will help you have a clean line when drawing. Using a light table, your computer screen or even a window, lay the diagram down, lay the stretched fabric on top and line it up with where you want it. With the light coming through, trace the pattern onto the fabric. I used to use a pencil for this but the pencil doesn't really erase or wash out, so it is not recommended. If a pencil is all you have, draw lightly. I really like a water soluble marker. DMC (the embroidery floss company) makes a great one. Do not use a permanent marker or a regular pen, the ink might run on the fabric or stain your threads.

Once the pattern is drawn on the cloth, loosen the hoop and put it right side up. The cloth should stretch across the top of the inner hoop with the outer hoop cinching it down. The cloth should be fairly taught, but not so tight it warps the hoop.

 

Method B: Tracing on Dark cloth

Same method, but you need to use something that will show up on the darker ground color. So far I haven’t found too many options. I have tried using a white gel pen. This works well, but the pen doesn’t wash out easily and can stain. If you cover the marks with stitches, it works well enough. The other thing I have tried is actually painting the lines on with a tiny brush using gouache paint (make sure it’s NOT acrylic gouache). On a dark green cloth, I used a light green gouache to put the pattern on. It was a leafy pattern so the gouache disappeared into the design. If you wanted to be really thorough, you could paint each outline in the color thread you plan on using. That sounds like a lot of extra work though. 



Method C: Printable embroidery paper

I believe there are a few different types of this printable paper available on the market, but I have only tried Stick and Stitch by Sulky. This is a pretty cool product because after you do your stitching you soak the piece in water and the printing literally dissolves! This would be a good alternative when working on darker ground cloths. (Note: Make sure your cloth, especially if its wool, your thread and any sequins or beads are water safe before using this method.) It prints easily and sticks pretty well to the cloth when you are working on a smaller piece. Recently I tried printing an 8 ½” x 11” sheet with a design of a Christmas tree on it, the tree was approximately 9”x 7”. I was using a dark ground cloth and wanted to try it out. I ended up having to baste the sticky sheet down. I think at such a large scale, it was too much surface area to stay secure. It was lifting up and shifting. The basting helped and I was able to stitch the trunk and branches before I washed it off. The other issue I was having was that it was so sticky, it felt like the needle was getting gummed up. So all told, not great for larger pieces.

Previously I used  the Stick and Stitch to make this Lodestar Tree Topper (see above) and while it was sticky, it worked well for small felt pieces and adding the sequins.



Method D: Printable Fabric

At the big-box fabric store near me, they sell a roll of printable fabric. It is 8.5” wide and can be cut to any length. It works only on inkjet printers. It comes in a poplin fabric and a twill. This works well for small quick projects. The poplin is a tight weave so it is not the most forgiving of surfaces. I have not tried the twill, but I suspect it is a bit thick for embroidery. 

printed fabric with embroidered details

Alternatively, Spoonflower. If you are not familiar, this is a print-on-demand service that offers custom printed fabric. They have a billion different prints available on many different types of fabric substrates. Spoonflower also is a great place to have your own designs printed. 

The cool thing about having a printed ground like this is that you can have large areas of color already in place, or add a more painterly touch to your piece.

Hope this helps you get started!

-km

Resources:

For Essex Cottons: Fabric Divas on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/fabricdivas

For Wool Felts: The Felt Pod on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheFeltPod

or Over the River Felt https://www.etsy.com/shop/OverTheRiverFelt

Printable Fabric (DIY) https://a.co/d/iWEZ7bM

Spoonflower: https://www.spoonflower.com/collections/801124-embroidery-patterns-by-kathrynmurray

Gouache for Dark Fabrics: https://a.co/d/4MjHiZy

White Gel Pen: https://a.co/d/cYQNOIS

Stick & Stitch: https://a.co/d/iZ7CYET

My favorite lightbox: https://a.co/d/gsRkM7E

Water Soluble Marker: https://a.co/d/06mDO1y

My favorite type of hoops: https://a.co/d/hc7UTJP

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